The
plan was to stay in BKK for 4/5 days to run some errands. We needed
visas for Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos; more malaria medication; and
various essentials we hadn't been able to get hold of on our tiny
island. Even though leaving the Gilis was a little traumatic, we were
actually
looking forward to being back in a proper city for a few days...
massively shallow and probably immoral, but all I wanted was to eat
Maccy D's and go to the cinema!
Our
flight, via Hong Kong, was a piece of cake and we landed in BKK in
the very early hours. So it was straight into a taxi from the airport
to our guesthouse, Baan Hualamphong. When we
arrived, dropped off by our very cheerful female driver, we were
told that the room we'd booked was full so we'd be put in an aircon
room for no extra charge. Fine by us! Especially considering the
weather, even at 2am, felt like being in a steam room.
We
paid 520THB
per night (about £10.50) and got a big room with two double beds
(incredibly hard mattresses), A/C, fridge, private bathroom, towels and loo roll
provided. Breakfast was included too and was good, provided you like
toast and fried eggs (the only option). Also, we soon discovered that
the location of our guesthouse was excellent - not too close to the
crazy tourist part of town but really near the Hua Lamphong Metro
station, so it was a perfect base for exploring the city.
And
what a city it is. One thing I was beginning to learn on our travels
was that preconceptions are pretty much useless. I've never been
interested in visiting Thailand, least of all Bangkok, which I was
under the impression was some sort of unbearably dirty, seedy slum.
As far as I was concerned we'd get in, do the necessary jobs, and get out as fast as we could. What did I know?? It's
a fabulous, vibrant, thriving, modern metropolis. I fell madly in love with
this place and, mainly due to my enthusiasm, we ended up staying for
10 days.
One
of our first stops was to the MBK mall (one of about, oh, a MILLION!)
We founds Boots - an exciting reminder of home - and bought the rest
of the malaria tablets we needed to get us through Asia. We also
purchased our first pot of Tiger Balm, which we soon realised is an
absolute essential; great relief from mosquito bites and various
other ailments - although we're still to figure out how it can cure
flatulence, as it claims on the label... just rub some under your
nose perhaps?? MBK was also our first encounter with the glorious
phenomenon of 'Asian tat' - shops and stalls full of coloured
plastic, grinning cartoon characters, cutesy animals, and unironic
bling. Plus on the sixth floor, they have a great foodhall where
there's a huge variety of cuisines available for bargain prices. You
buy vouchers and then swap them for a meal; the best we found was the
vegetarian stall where you choose three delicious dishes for 50THB
(about £1).
We
ate very well in Bangkok. The area called Siam is
full of hip young things (BKK is so much more fashionable than I
would've expected too!) and we had some good food around here
(between my bouts of drooling over the shops and market stalls full
of clothes I couldn't afford to buy).
We treated ourselves one night
to the Hard Rock Café,
gorging ourselves on meat and various deep fried accompaniments. We
also went to Som Tam Nua
for the eponymous green papaya salad, plus excellent chicken wings,
fried fish and sticky rice.
We
took the extremely cheap and fun river taxi down to the Khaosan Road area where we bought a
knock-off copy of the Lonely Planet guide to Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos
& Northern Thailand, and stopped off for a lunch of som tam, tom
yum kung (a hot and sour prawn soup), chicken noodle soup and spring rolls. Most of what
we ate in BKK was supremely spicy (after all that bland Indonesian
food, everything we ordered in Thailand had to be swimming in chili)
and when we told the waitress we wanted our dishes 'Thai spicy' not
'tourist spicy' she agreed, but kept coming back to our table during
our meal to check we were ok!
Even
though I came travelling with grand ideas of eating street food everywhere
we went, the multitude of stalls lining the pavements were rarely all
that appetising once we'd considering how long the edibles had been sat in the open or how much diesel fume had choked them. So we didn't really
delve into that culinary adventure.
We
did push our boundaries with some stuff that was kind of odd though:
raw prawns and sun-dried beef (both really delicious) at a place
called Heap with our friend Toby. This was also when we
discovered that pork fried rice in Thai is pronounced 'cow pat moo',
so we'll never go hungry as we'll never forget that! We also had
dinner with our friend Josie, who introduced us to pomelo, a big
citrus fruit that we had as a yummy salad.
Also,
bubble tea, which comes in all kinds of flavours but is basically
flavoured milk with chewy balls in it and an extra wide straw so you
can suck them through. I had a chocolate one. It was awesome.
The
Paragon Shopping Centre is the high-end mall where all the posh
designer stores are: Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Mulberry, Chanel, H&M.
Yep, you read that right. We were accidentally there for the grand
opening of the first Bangkok H&M store and it was a frenzy!
Hundreds of people queuing out of the door, mums taking photos of
their kids in front of the signage. Hilarious.
Our main reason for
visiting Paragon was to go to the cinema though. We'd heard really
good things about the Bangkok multiplexes, especially the big comfy
seats and the glorious air conditioning. We
saw Dredd
on a massive digital screen with great sound, and ate our body weight
in Häagen-Dazs. All for about £4.20 each. A great indulgence after
a month on an Indonesian desert island in the middle of nowhere!
The
weather was sweltering the whole time we were in the city so
opportunities to escape inside to air conditioned comfort of
shopping malls and cinemas were extremely welcome. It broke one night
though, with a spectacular storm right over the top of our
guesthouse, and woke us up with some of the loudest thunder and
brightest lightning either of us had ever encountered. It lit the
room up like it was midday and came through our eyelids to wake us
up! It was still ridiculously hot and muggy the next morning though.
As
well as shopping and eating, we did do some sightseeing. We had a
lovely afternoon at the Bangkok
Art &
Culture Centre, looking round the galleries of brilliant Thai artworks and
chatting to a young artist called Kan who was selling some of his
drawings in the public space.
The
Jim Thompson House was also really interesting. He was an American
who settled in Thailand and set up a huge silk empire (before going missing in Malaysia) and you can
look around his gorgeous 1950s Bangkok residence. It was a
very interesting little tour and a really nice way to spend an hour
or two, looking around the gardens and his collection of artifacts.
We
mostly got around the city using the BST (skytrain) and Metro
systems. They were fast, easy and cheap... a bit like the girls in Patpong!!! Sorry.
Ahem! The trains are pretty
entertaining in themselves, with constant adverts showing on the
overhead TVs and priceless people-watching opportunities. Sometimes
there's more than just watching too... like with the friendly old guy
who told me about his massage business, said I was very 'modern'
looking and then nodded knowingly when I said I was from London, then
gave me his card and kissed me on the cheek before disembarking.
All
of this urban sprawl got a bit much in the end though, and Dave
especially was getting antsy and keen to move on. So, knowing we'd be
back to my 'new favourite city' in a couple of months, we booked
ourselves onto a bus to Aranya Prathet at the Cambodian border and
left for country number three.
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