Gili
Air (pronounced Gilly Aye-Er) very quickly charmed the
flip-flops off us both and we were soon in no rush to leave. It was
so lovely, after all the preparations for the wedding and travels and
the busy first few weeks of the honeymoon, to find somewhere so
chilled where we could just sit still together for a while. We
experienced that common traveller phenomenon of planning to visit
somewhere for 4-5 days and ending up staying a whole lot longer... a
month by the time we left! We just couldn't think of anywhere else
we'd have been happier at that point.
A lot of it had to do with the
home-away-from-home we discovered at Bintang Beach Bungalows (BBB).
It was perfect for us; really great staff who made us very welcome
and a good atmosphere with the other guests. We'd play cards, read,
listen to music, chat and generally watch the world go by.
Dave contemplating life, the universe & everything |
Two
of the many lovely people we met were a couple of girls who'd been on
the island for a few months and had ended up doing some work at BBB.
Nadine and Kim were really helpful, giving us tips about
things like cheap places to eat and good swimming spots. They also
lent us their external hard drive so we copied a bunch of music
and movies – really handy on quiet nights when you just fancied
flopping in front of a film or wanted to play some tunes in the bar.
We
did have a nasty shock during our first couple of days. Andi, the
manager of the bungalows who had greeted us on our first day,
tragically died in a motorbike crash on Lombok. Dave and I had been
on a little exploration of the island and came back to the bungalows one afternoon to find a very sombre group of people sharing a drink, and we were
told of the accident. Later that night we joined the staff and Nadine
and Kim for a small 'wake' in Andi's honour. We knew him for all of
about 48 hours, but the love that the others felt for him was
palpable and it was clear that he was a great guy who would be really
missed. He was 34. R.I.P. Andi.
Deep
breath. Anyway...
Our
bungalow was about a 30 second walk to the beach and Bintang's
bar/restaurant, where there were little open huts called berugak
and bamboo furniture and cushions set up on the sand. We spent a lot
of time sitting up at the bar chatting to the guys who worked there,
Ali and Adi – who seemed to be on duty every hour of the day, with
Ali even sleeping at night behind the bar! We'd have our breakfast
there every morning – usually the classic banana pancakes
(spelled 'pencaks' on the menu - now all they'll ever be called by
us!) and tall glasses of muddy Lombok coffee. Always that gamble of
'can I get one last sip without getting a mouthful of grounds?'
Ali & Adi |
There
wasn't any WiFi access at BBB, but it was available in some of the
bars around the island, even if it was a little unreliable. There
would also be regular power cuts, as the island runs off of its own
generators that go down pretty regularly. At one point we were having
2-3 blackouts a day, which was a bit of a pain when the fan in our
room or the speakers in the bar cut out.
There
was a laundry service (or 'lundry' as the sign read.. another
term we've adopted) and we treated ourselves to our first machine
wash since being away. Oh the delight of simple things like clean
clothes – really clean, not just done with shower gel in the
basin! On this subject, I had to hold my hands up to Dave and
congratulate him for the excellent forethought that led to his
purchase of a travel plug before we left the UK. It's something I
didn't really see the point of, but weirdly nowhere has plugs for their plugholes and how else were we supposed to wash our smalls??
We were also very pleased to have bought other 'travel essentials' like cotton sleeping bags (just in case of bedbugs), torches (the pathways on Gili Air weren't lit), padlocks (the only way to lock the door of our bungalow), and the wire mesh backpack cage (just to keep things like our laptop and passports extra safe in our room while we were out and about).
We were also very pleased to have bought other 'travel essentials' like cotton sleeping bags (just in case of bedbugs), torches (the pathways on Gili Air weren't lit), padlocks (the only way to lock the door of our bungalow), and the wire mesh backpack cage (just to keep things like our laptop and passports extra safe in our room while we were out and about).
Another
novelty was the open-air shower in our bungalow. I was unsure at
first about it being outside, and about the cold water too, but it
was perfect after a day on the beach, even if it wasn't always too
relaxing dodging the bees that were somehow fascinated with the
running water.
BBB
did really good food (both local and Western) and we settled into a
routine of eating breakfast and then a decent meal in the late
afternoon, with maybe a fruit salad around midday. That saw us
through no problem, but it's not like we were burning much energy
sitting on the beach all day! Elsewhere on the island you could eat a
good bowl of nasi campur (rice and yummy stuff) for about £1 in the
warungs slightly inland but the island speciality was delicious fresh
fish BBQs – restaurants would display the day's catch out front and
you could choose your fish, which would then be cooked fresh for you
over coconut shells. YUM!
There
was a big dance party at a bar called Space on our first Saturday on
the island, where they had some international DJs come over to play.
Dave and I went along with Ali once he'd finished work and had a few
beers and a dance in the sand. They'd set up a stage and loads of UV
decorations and black lights, plus people doing fire shows. The music was 'psytrance', which isn't
exactly our genre of choice, but it was good fun and my first ever
beach party! (How had it taken me 30 years??)
We
had our own beach party at BBB one night too. Nadine and Kim were
leaving for Australia, so they threw a big farewell send off. There
was a bonfire on the beach and the locals they had gotten to know
over their months on the island cooked up a fantastic feast of
grilled fish, water spinach, rice, tempe, and a delicious spicy
sauce. We drank far too much 'home brew' rice wine (called 'brum',
preferably said as a kind of car noise) being passed around and
plenty of good music for dancing.
Dave enjoys the local brew |
James, Laura & Ali |
We
felt like we'd settled in and found a good bunch of people to spend
time with... and those people were the main reason why Gili Air will always have a special place in our hearts.
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